The Macedonian textile industry is the second largest industrial sector in the country, after the metal industry. It is also one of the most developed and diversified sectors of the country's economy in terms of industrial production, employment and export earnings. It contributes 2.3% to the gross domestic product (GDP) or approximately 450 million euros worth of exported goods, and there are 1,076 officially registered legal entities actively involved at various levels of production, employing approximately 35,000 employees and representing 8.36% of the country's exports in 2019 (Statistical Office of the Republic of Macedonia, 2021). Most companies operate on the principle of cutting and sewing the material from which the garment is made (CMT). Less than 15% of the companies can offer a „full package“, practically offering the buyer a finished product, from design, material selection, cutting and sewing, quality control and delivery. The textile industry’s share in total exports in Macedonia in 2019 accounted for 8,36% of total exports or 9,53% in 2018. Around 93% of total textile production is accounted for by the so-called CMT (cut, sew, trim) production. The most important export destination, with more than 60% of exports, is Germany, followed by the Netherlands, Greece, Turkey, Austria, Bulgaria, the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Italy and Belgium. Macedonian clothing globally represents slightly less than 1% of global textile exports worldwide. (FWF, 2021). The clothing industry took a strong hit in 2020. COVID-19 resulted in reduced orders and production, although some companies started producing protective masks, which led to increased liquidity in the short term. Many workers lost their jobs, and in some cases, after DIT intervention, employers were forced to return them to work. A particularly big challenge was the (non)compliance with occupational safety measures and protocols by employers, especially manufacturing companies, where textile, leather and shoe workers were most affected.
The health and safety situation in this industry is at a basic level and is within the framework of what is „minimally required by law“. This situation has persisted since Macedonia’s independence until today. With this approach to health and safety at work, many employers, combined with the lowest wages paid and the large number of overtime hours, have managed to make this industry an unaffordable employment option for young workers, and thus it is doomed to count down its final days of existence. The health of these employees, as the authors will show through this study, is significantly compromised, and thus it is quite to be expected that productivity will decrease and production errors will increase.
